Married women's clothing in the Turkic and Mongolic peoples of Inner Asia: images, functions, meaning (cegedek, qubaiki, uuja, degelei, tangalai)
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.25178/nit.2020.4.19Keywords:
Turkic and Mongolic peoples; Inner Asia; outerwear; traditional clothes; waistcoat; female garments; Mongols; Oirats; Buryats; Tuvans; Yakuts; Khakass; Altai peopleAbstract
The waistcoat traditionally worn by women of the Turkic and Mongolic peoples of Inner Asia (such as Mongols, Oirats, Buryats, Tuvans, Yakuts, the Khakass and the Altai) is a multifunctional subject. Over the course of many hundreds of years of the development of nomadic culture, its main purpose was to designate the social status of women in society, indicate their ethnicity, and provide magical protection. The tradition to enhance and decorate the bodice of a waistcoat goes back to its role as part of the military attire. Subsequently, this function of women’s sleeveless jacket gave way to its role as magical protection from evil spirits and "bad" looks.
Some of the words describing the waistcoat or its parts are of Turkic and Mongolic origin, but there are also borrowings testifying to the close contacts between the nomads and the Tungus-Manchu peoples. The key concept to which almost all the names of this outerwear come down is that of “skin, leather, fur”, which emphasizes the original function of waistcoat jackets - protecting from cold and precipitation.
The origins of this garment might have combined two diverging types of waistcoat jacket: the long-skirted one was of the upper overalls type, while the other was shorter and worn next to the skin. The function of the latter was to keep together and support the female breast. In the course of its historical modification, the waistcoat jacket acquired special symbolic content and thus became a marker of the new social status a woman achieved in marriage, setting her apart from unmarried girls and widows. The waistcoat jacket became a symbol of the subordination of a woman to her husband's family and his kin.
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Содномпилова М. М. Одежда замужней женщины тюрко-монгольских народов Внутренней Азии: образы, функции, значение (cegedek, qubaiki, uuja, degelei, tangalai) // Новые исследования Тувы. 2020, № 4. С. 272-288. DOI: www.doi.org/10.25178/nit.2020.4.19
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Sodnompilova M. M. Odezhda zamuzhnei zhenshchiny tiurko-mongol'skikh narodov Vnutrennei Azii: obrazy, funktsii, znachenie (cegedek, qubaiki, uuja, degelei, tangalai) [Married women's clothing in the Turkic and Mongolic peoples of Inner Asia: images, functions, meaning (cegedek, qubaiki, uuja, degelei, tangalai)]. New Research of Tuva, 2020, no. 4, pp. 272-288. (In Russ.). DOI: www.doi.org/10.25178/nit.2020.4.19
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Marina Mikhaylovna Sodnompilova, Kalmyk Scientific Center, Russian Academy of Sciences
Doctor of History, Leading Research Associate, Oriental Studies Interdisciplinary Research Laboratory, Kalmyk Scientific Center, Russian Academy of Sciences.
Postal address: 8 Ilishkin St., 358000 Elista, Russian Federation.
Tel.: +7 (84722) 3-55-06.
E-mail: sodnompilova@yandex.ru
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